The day started like this at Republic SquareLet me just open with one statement.
Prague is the most beautiful city I have ever been to, save, perhaps Venice.
This thousand year old city, once seat of the Holy Roman Empire takes its architecture (and now preservation) seriously. With styles represented ranging from Baroque to Art Deco to Art Noveau to Modern and everything in between, Prague is breathtaking in it's physical beauty.
Almost every building near the city center has a history worth telling. In fact, the sheer number of beautiful and notable structures makes it so that the locals might be forgiven if they get desensitized to it.
Heck, I stopped keeping track of buildings that I wanted to go back to take photos of about three hours into the first morning - THAT is how many there are.
Then the weather quickly deterioriatedUnfortunately, a centuries old city plan made it so that after I got in on my first night, I got lost finding my way home from dinner even though the restaurant was only on a parallel street, one block over from my hotel.
In my defense, the street curved and so when I took a left and another left, I didn't wind up coming back 'round the block like I expected.
Yes, I got lost for 30 to 45 minutes last night, wandering around dark alleys and side streets before finally deciding that my fear of approaching a foreign stranger for directions was miniscule compared to my fear of being mugged of my money and credit cards in an unfamiliar country.
The start of our hour foot tour at Strahovska ChurchThe next morning, I joined a tour with Yeori, a wonderful guide who gave our tour simultaneously in Spanish and English and taught all of us that Wenceslas was a Saint and a Prince and not a King as the song states.
Ever trying to make my two other Argentinian tour mates more comfortable, I periodically broke out my one year of Middle School Spanish.
"Esta bien," "Uno cerveza," "mi llamo Juan," and
"Donde esta el bano" all came out of my mouth today.
Si! Mi Espanol esta bien!
I've been told this spot has a spectacular view of PragueUnfortunately, while my decision to visit Prague in the hard middle of winter and during a global economic crisis was well received by the tour company, it wasn't exactly the best time for touring.
Snow seems to have followed me from Boston to Nuremburg to Prague (and now to Zurich where I am dwindling away my 6 hour layover by watching the plows try to clear the runway), where it was just above freezing yesterday with huge flakes falling out of the sky.
Icy, cold and raw conditions abounded, which made me glad I signed up for a bus tour... before realizing that there was an hour and a half walking component to the tour.
St Vitus CathedralThe tour was worthwhile, however, even with the walking tour. In fact, the walking tour involved a stopover in a local cafe called by our guide in the face of the driving snow. I tried to order coffee but was shamed into uno cerveza by both by Yeori and Sebastian, one of the Argentinians. His wife was allowed to have coffee. As it was, Yeori sniffed a bit when I asked him to order me a
small beer.
It was actually lots of fun to crunch around in the snow with some strangers in a starnge city since we were all suitably dressed with heavy coats.
Old Town SquareAfter the tour ended, I grabbed a delicious lunch off of Old Town Square which made me realize how much I LOVE Czech food.
The food in Germany was pretty good, but the food in Czech Republic is SO. MUCH. BETTER.
Delicious Klobasa sausage with kraut and mustard? Czech. Onion Soup? Czech. Frisee Salad with cranberry vinegraite dressing, garlic croutons and an entire wheel of baked camembert?
OH MY GOD CZECH!!! So delicious, I'd go back just for the food.
The Jewish CemetaryAfter my gustatorially transcendent experience, I went for a sobering walk through the Jewish Museum which covers the Jewish population of Prague starting from before 1100.
Of the 90,000 Jews living in Prague before the Nazis decided they needed a little elbow room and annexed the Sudetenland, about 80,000 were shipped to the Terezin concentration camp to be further shipped to places with names like Auschwitz, Bergen-Belsen and Dachau.
The museum is several buildings, one of which is starkly empty with walls that are white but for the names of those who perished painted on the walls. 80,000 names covered several rooms floor to ceiling.
I could feel the weight of their grief and sorrow pressing down on me and had to fight back tears by the fourth room full of names.
Tougher to take was the upstairs room exhibiting hand drawn pictures from the school children at the primary school that the Jews in Terezin organized to educate their children.
Pictures ranged from happy memories of being home in Prague to dark depictions of being rounded up.
It wasn't until the second wall of pictures that I noticed that a few of the pictures had the word, "Survived" inscribed under the artist's name. Most simply had two years.
It was at this point that I could no longer hold back the tears.
It made me understand better why many Jewish people feel that a strong Israel is essential for never having that happen again.
Even now, writing about it, I feel anguish and grief at the monstrosity of it. The sheer unspeakable awfulness was overwhelming, brought even further home by my new status as a father.
Whereas as a childless man, I could acknowledge that killing six million men, women and children was a bad thing, having a child, then facing the terrible prospect of losing that child has given me a new perspective and a new empathy for my fellow man.
Yet another way that parenthood has changed my view of the world.
I needed a bit of a break after that.
Thankfully, a walk through the old Jewish Cemetery behind the synagogue was a quiet way for me to catch my breath and transition. It was a gloomy, grey and cold day which seemed apropos to my emotional state. I found myself apologizing to the gravestones I passed by, feeling the grief these long dead prominent Czech Jews must have felt to see their people so treated and so exorcising some of my own grief by sharing it with them.
Sarka and meAfter that experience, I was in no mood for more touring, so returned briefly to my hotel before meeting the only person I now know in the Czech Republic, an old Camp Huckins friend of SAM's, Sarka.
As you can see, a good time was had by all.
After my afternoon, I was glad for some upbeat company, and Sarka was very indulgent of all my questions about her, the Czech Republic, her life and Sarah's history.
We enjoyed another wonderful meal in a restaurant that never rushed us even as we chatted and chatted after our food, coffees and water were long gone.
It was a wonderful time and wonderful conversation that served as the perfect cap to a worthwhile and meaningful trip for me.
The National MuseumAfter a very large dinner, I admit, I was so taken by the Czech food that after Sarka headed home, I bought more Czech Sausage off the street from a sausage stand while wandering around the city taking night photos. And after that, another one.
That's how good they are.
And today for lunch as I waited for my flight at the Prague airport? Goulash with... sausage.
You could say that, for me, Prague was a sausage fest.
And a delicious one at that.
Me in Wenceslas SquareNow, I head home, grateful for the opportunity to mix in a little side trip into business, but even more thankful of the family that I return to.
I haven't seen SAM or Margaret in two weeks, now, and I can't wait to get home to see the changes and relax into the familiar.
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